For more information or to schedule an free crawl space assessment, call us @ 404 728 0001

For years, standard building practice was to insulate under the floors over a ventilated, unconditioned crawl space. A better approach is to create an enclosed, conditioned  crawl space by sealing and insulating the foundation walls rather than the sub-floor.

The benefits of a conditioned or an enclosed crawl space are:

• A clean dry crawl space
• Significantly reduced humidity
• Warmer floors in the winter
• Lower heating bills
• Cleaner air inside the home
• Fewer insects
• Duct work and water pipes are within the conditioned area of the house so they become more energy efficient and are protected against freezing.
• Overall, a more comfortable home.

A sealed crawl space is protected from moisture by using a vapor barrier on the floor and walls. There are other components to consider like; the quality of the vapor barrier, how to close the foundation vents permanently, crawl space insulation, sealing the vapor barrier to the foundation walls, conditioning the crawl space and crawl space moisture control.

Moisture Control

We know moisture is a major problem with crawl spaces. We also know the foundation vents, the dirt floor, the foundation walls and the cracks around the rim joist are sources of negative crawl space conditions.   The open foundation vents are the number one reason for energy loss in the crawl space.

The first step is to permanently close the foundation vents.  Once the vents are closed it is time to address the open earth and the foundation walls.  To eliminate these areas from causing problems again, we install a 12 mil polyethylene vapor barrier.   We prefer the 12 mil vapor barrier because of it durability. It is important to use a polyethylene barrier that is made from virgin resins. This will insure a long life for your investment. Most low cost polyethylene barriers are made from recycled plastic. While recycling is great for most products, it is not the best choice for this application because over time it breaks down and becomes brittle. The open seams, cracks or splits in the vapor barrier will render even the highest quality barrier ineffective.

Now that the crawl space environment can be controlled the next step is to dry it out.  One option is to install a Honeywell DR65  dehumidifier.  This is will dry the home’s structure and works extremely well in a high humidity location like Georgia.  First, even before price is considered, the dehumidifier has to be sized right for the area. This means, once the humidity levels are under control, the dehumidifier should spend more time off than on. Most often a dehumidifier is viewed as working great because it runs all day everyday. The fact is it’s not working at all. If the dehumidifier is running all the time it can not get the humidity levels down to the setting on the control panel. What you have is a dehumidifier that is only helping to remove some moisture at the expense of your electric bill. A dehumidifier that uses 6 amps of electricity (about 700 watts) and runs 24 hours a day seven days a week will cost between $65- $80 a month in electricity. When the dehumidifier is sized properly it will sit quiet and only come on when the levels rise above the control panel settings. It will quickly reduce the moisture in the air and shut back down. A cheap dehumidifier can cost you more in electricty in than the entire cost of a quality unit.

Not all crawl spaces need a dehumidifier. It is our opinion that the best solution is to condition the crawl space with the air from the home.  This is usually the most economical solution as well.  With proper air exchange (which makes the air cleaner), the home is more efficient and it is more comfortable. Keep in mind you now have a clean and dry crawl space.

Conditioned Air

There are a few components to accomplishing a conditioned crawl space successfully; conditioned air circulation and proper insulation.

The benefits of conditioned air in the crawl space are:

• Clean dry crawl space
• Warm floors
• Lower heating bills
• Cleaner air inside the home
• Overall, a more comfortable home.

Air from the home, usually supplied by the HVAC system, is delivered to the crawl space as if it were any other part of the home. A return vent is also installed to keep the crawl space from being pressurized. When heated air is delivered in the winter months, the object is not to heat the crawl space but to deliver heat to the home one level lower. The advantage is the heat in the crawl space stays in the home. Heat naturally rises so it will pass through the floor and enter the living area. When the warm air rises it will leave the floor warm and comfortable. This alone will make the investment worth it. The heat continues to rise to the ceiling and on its way it warms the living space occupied by your family. When the heat comes out of the registers on the main level it immediately heads to the ceiling without restriction. With heat passing through the floor the home has a longer heat retention cycle. In other words, this reduces the amount of heating cycles, the furnace runs less and the heat bills are lower.

During the summer months the efficiency works the complete opposite. In the summer the air return is the key vehicle for the efficiency and the supply supports the circulation of cool air to be exchanged.  In the summer, the ground in the crawl space stays about 55-60°F at about 48” (this is a medium guide and may very depending on location). With an air return in the crawl space, the home can utilize this free cool air. Now when the air conditioner (A/C) comes on it circulates the air from the home, mixes it with the cool air in the crawl space and then redelivers the dehumidified air. This causes the A/C to work shorter cycles and run less often saving you money. You will gain the energy efficiency and the furnace will control the humidity in the winter because it will cook the moisture out of the air and in the summer the A/C will step up and dehumidify the crawl space air.

Properly Insulating the Crawl Space

Properly insulating the crawl space is very important to the energy efficiency of a conditioned crawl space. Insulation in the floor joists cavity is no longer needed if the crawl space is conditioned. In a condition crawl space the insulation is needed around the perimeter of the foundation walls. We install Owens Corning rigid foam board and leave a termite inspection gap below the sill plate.  The rim (band) joist is a critical area of heat loss because there is only 1 ½ inches of wood between the inside and the outside. This is also an area with small openings or cracks in the wood. We use spray foam to air seal and insulate the band joist

As an Authorized Honeywell Weatherization Contractor, Arbor Insulation Solutions has successfully completed an in-depth training through the Honeywell Enovate™PRO Contractor program. The training, done in conjunction with BPI, instructs select contractors how to analyze the building envelope, utilize methods and products for air sealing and weatherization and maintain all health and safety best practices.

“As an Authorized Honeywell Weatherization Contractor, Arbor Insulation Solutions is ready to help homeowners and building owners make their property more comfortable and more energy-efficient,” said Bryan Magnus, business manager for weatherization products and services at Honeywell. “We congratulate Arbor Insulation Solutions on becoming an Authorized Honeywell Weatherization Contractor.”

Arbor Insulation Solutions understands the need for buildings to conserve heating and cooling resources as much as possible. Arbor Insulation Solutions is locally owned and operated, serving the Atlanta insulation and weatherization needs for the Atlanta Metro suburbs. “We continue to differentiate ourselves from the competition by constantly improving our services to offer clients superior products and unsurpassed workmanship,” said Scott Osborne of Arbor Insulation Solutions. “We offer insulation and weatherization solutions for every type of building; from century old homes and multifamily apartment dwellings to hospitals, schools and state-of-the-art buildings. With a company as well respected as Honeywell behind you, our clients can rest assured the solutions will be completed correctly, on time and within budget.”

Air sealing and weatherizing homes is one of the most effective ways homeowners can save energy and make homes more comfortable.  According to the Air Barrier Association of America, a typical 2,500-square-foot home has more than a half mile of cracks and crevices. The U.S. government estimates that air leakage accounts for 25-40 percent of energy used for heating and cooling an average home.

Only Authorized Honeywell Weatherization Contractors have access to a complete line of best in class Honeywell EnovatePRO air sealing and weatherization products and materials, including foam sealants and commercial grade weather stripping, used to perform weatherization contracting work.

Located in Roswell Georgia, Arbor Insulation Solutions, services the following metro areas: Atlanta, Sandy Springs, Duluth, Marietta, Alpharetta, Johns Creek, Roswell, Dunwoody, Cumming and Suwanee.

For more information call (404) 728-0001

Close the door!  You’re letting all the air out!  Remember hearing that as a kid or saying it to your own?  No matter how well your home is constructed or how new, your home is vulnerable to gaps, cracks, joints and seams where air can squeeze through.  When you add them all up, it’s like leaving a door or window open year round!  Your home is losing energy and it is costing you money and comfort.

You see it in your utility bills and feel the drafts in the winter and the humidity in the summer.  Air infiltration can account for 30% or more of a home’s heating and cooling costs and can contribute to problems with moisture, noise, dust and the entry of pollutants, insects and rodents. Reducing infiltration can significantly cut annual heating and cooling costs, improve building durability, and create a better indoor environment.

Blow and Go!

While some insulation companies will gladly add insulation, they may not have the training and/or the expertise to identify air leaks in your attic or basement.  As the industry refers to it, they perform a ‘blow and go’.  Arbor Insulation Solutions has the knowledge, experience and resources to solve your comfort and energy loss issues.  There are several ways to reduce the air infiltration but they all have some issues; too costly, too hazardous or just can’t do the job correctly.  One effective solution currently on the market is the Owens Corning™ EnergyComplete™ system.  The Energy Complete system and proven Owens Corning  insulation combine to seal the gaps in your home’s attic and walls, making it an oasis of peace and quiet.

For more information, call us at 404 728 0001

Check Our Credentials!

Arbor Insulation Solutions is one of the only insulation companies in the Southeast with a Building Performance Institute Certification (www.bpi.org) as both a Building Analyst and Building Envelope Professional.

We are also very proud to have been selected, trained and approved to become one of the only Authorized Honeywell Weatherization Contractors in Georgia.

1. Convection
2. Conduction
3. Radiation

Convection is the movement of heat through air.  This is addressed by sealing your home from air leaks.

Conduction is the movement of heat through materials such as walls, glass, etc…  Insulation (foam, wool, cellulose or fiberglass)  slows down this transfer, but does not eliminate it.

Another reason for energy loss through the attic is emission, or radiant heat transfer, which is essentially the transfer of heat through empty space, rather than by direct contact. Radiation (historically the most ignored transfer method in homes) is the transfer of heat in its most pure form, heat waves.  If you have ever felt the warmth of the sun on your face, then you’ve experienced heat transfer by emission.  Adding attic insulation such as fiberglass or cellulose doesn’t fully address this type of transfer because they protect mostly against convection and conduction. We use reflective barriers to send heat back to its source. Ever wondered why satellites are so shiny? Reflective barriers! Wonder what makes low-e glass more efficient? It’s a reflective barrier!

Studies have shown that as much as 70% of heat loss in a home is due to radiation.

In the winter, warm air rises and is collected along the ceiling. The drywall absorbs the heat and is passed along to the insulation in the attic. The insulation slows the transfer of heat to the attic, but it still lets much of it through. The heat is radiated into the attic from the insulation and dissipates into the cold air. By installing a radiant barrier above the insulation, the escaping heat is reflected back into the insulation, and ultimately, your home.

In summer it works the same, but in reverse. Heat radiated from your hot roof is reflected away from your ceiling significantly reducing your attic temperature and keeps your home cooler.

A home that does not address all three of these transfer methods is not as efficient as it can be.

To learn more or to schedule and appointment, please call us @ 404 728 0001

Check Our Credentials!

Arbor Insulation Solutions is one of the only insulation companies in the Southeast with a Building Performance Institute Certification (www.bpi.org) as both a Building Analyst and Building Envelope Professional.

We are also very proud to have been selected, trained and approved to become one of the only Authorized Honeywell Weatherization Contractors in Georgia.

If you’re considering a home improvement project in 2011, the good news is that the current administration extended the tax credits for another year. While the new incentives aren’t as sweet as the 2010 benefits, it still makes sense to upgrade your home in ways that’ll end up conserving resources.

Homeowners are eligible for a tax credit of up to $500 for 10% of the costs of qualified energy-saving improvements such as insulation.  For example, if a homeowner spends $1,000 on new qualifying insulation, they are eligible for a $100 Federal tax credit.

Note, the Energy Star website emphasizes a $500 lifetime limit: “If you got over $500 in these tax credits from 2006 to 2010, you are not eligible for anything more.”

Over the long term, retrofitting can reduce heating bills.   And since U.S. homes account for more than 20% of America’s carbon dioxide emissions, energy-efficient structures are good for the whole planet.

Which areas of my home should I insulate to be eligible for the tax credit?

The tax credit applies only to improvements made to your principal residence within the the building envelope since that affects energy use.  The envelope is defined as the area along the perimeter of the home that separates the living space from the outside.  This includes attics, foundation and exterior walls, basements and crawl spaces.

Is there a specific time frame in which I need to make energy efficiency improvements in order to be eligible for the tax credit?

Consumers who want to take advantage of the Federal tax credits for their homes must install the products between January 1, 2011 and December 31, 2011.

What paperwork will I need to produce at tax time in order to be eligible for the tax credit?

Complete information on the paperwork required to claim the tax credit can be obtained from the IRS.  Consumers will need to turn in an itemized retail or contractor receipt clearing proving the full amount spent on insulation materials within the eligible time period of January 1, 2009 through December 31, 2010.  A Manufacturer’s Certification Document from the insulation manufacturer should also be filled out and turned in with the other documents.  Contact us and we will be happy to provide you with the appropriate Manufacturer’s Certification Document.

For more information please visit the Energy Star website

**Please carefully consult the Internal Revenue Service (http://www.irs.gov/) guidelines on how to qualify for the energy efficiency tax credit as well as your Tax Advisor.

We get a lot of calls or emails from homeowners who are approached by companies marketing a radiant barrier or foil insulation as an insulation solution to high energy bills. Most of these companies are not ‘real’ insulation or home performance companies but sophisticated telemarketers.  We know because they call us to install the products for them.  They use high pressure sales techniques to get you to sign today.  Not everyone needs a radiant barrier and most likely will not achieve the utility savings these companies promise.  9 out of 10 times, the priority should be to air seal your home, install additional insulation and then consider a  radiant barrier.  A radiant barrier can be a great product if installed correctly.  It’s like a tool in a tool box, and these companies only have one tool.  A properly installed radiant barrier in your attic works with the air sealing and insulation to create a system that resists all three forms of heat transfer (conduction, convection, and radiation).

Give us a call, we are always happy to come out discuss your particular comfort concerns or issues.

For more information or to schedule an appointment, please call us @ 404 728 0001

Check Our Credentials!

Arbor Insulation Solutions is one of one of the only insulation companies in the southeast with a Building Performance Institute Certification (www.bpi.org) as both a Building Analyst and Building Envelope Professional.

We are also very proud to have been selected, trained and approved to become one of the only Authorized Honeywell Weatherization Contractors in Georgia.

What is a radiant barrier?

Research shows that radiant energy is one of the most important components of heat transfer. Alone, traditional insulation does little to stop the transfer of radiant energy in and out of your home. Radiant barriers are materials that are installed in buildings to reduce summer heat gain and winter heat loss, and hence to reduce building heating and cooling energy usage. The potential benefit of attic radiant barriers is primarily in reducing air-conditioning cooling loads in warm or hot climates. Radiant barriers usually consist of a sheet or coating of a highly reflective material, usually aluminum, applied to one or both sides of a number of substrate materials. These substrates include kraft paper, plastic films, cardboard, plywood sheathing, and air infiltration barrier material. Some products are fiber reinforced to increase the durability and ease of handling.

Radiant barriers can be used in residential, commercial, and industrial buildings. However, this fact sheet was developed only for applications of radiant barriers in ventilated attics of residential buildings. For information on other applications, see the references at the end of the Fact Sheet.

How do radiant barriers work?

Radiant barriers work by reducing heat transfer by thermal radiation across the air space between the roof deck and the attic floor, where conventional insulation is usually placed. On a sunny summer day, solar energy is absorbed by the roof, heating the roof sheathing and causing the underside of the sheathing and the roof framing to radiate heat downward toward the attic floor. When a radiant barrier is installed, much of the heat radiated from the hot roof is reflected back toward the roof. This  reduces the temperature in the attic and makes the top surface of the insulation cooler than it would have been without a radiant barrier and thus reduces the amount of heat that moves through the insulation into the rooms below the ceiling.

Radiant barriers can also reduce indoor heat losses through the ceiling in the winter. Radiant barriers reduce the amount of energy radiated from the top surface of the insulation.

All materials give off, or emit, energy by thermal radiation as a result of their temperature. The amount of energy emitted depends on the surface temperature and a property called the “emissivity” (also called the “emittance”). The emissivity is a number between zero (0) and one (1). The higher the emissivity, the greater the emitted radiation.

A closely related material property is the “reflectivity” (also called the “reflectance”). This is a measure of how much radiant heat is reflected by a material. The reflectivity is also a number between 0 and 1 (sometimes, it is given as a percentage, and then it is between 0 and 100%). For a material that is opaque (that is, it does not allow radiation to pass directly through it), when the emissivity and reflectivity are added together, the sum is one (1). Hence, a material with a high reflectivity has a low emissivity, and vice versa. Radiant barrier materials must have high reflectivity (usually 0.9, or 90%, or more) and low emissivity (usually 0.1 or less), and must face an open air space to perform properly.

How does a radiant barrier differ from conventional attic insulation?

Radiant barriers perform a function that is similar to that of conventional insulation, in that they reduce the amount of heat that is transferred from the attic into the house. They differ in the way they reduce the heat flow. A radiant barrier reduces the amount of heat radiated across an air space that is adjacent to the radiant barrier. The primary function of conventional insulation is to trap still air within the insulation, and hence reduce heat transfer by air movement (convection). The insulation fibers or particles also partially block radiation heat transfer through the space occupied by the insulation.

Conventional insulations are usually rated by their R-value. Since the performance of radiant barriers depends on many variables, simple R-value ratings have not been developed for them.

What are the characteristics of a radiant barrier?

All radiant barriers have at least one reflective (or low emissivity) surface, usually a sheet or coating of aluminum. Some radiant barriers have a reflective surface on both sides. Both types work about equally well, but if a one-sided radiant barrier is used, the reflective surface must face the open air space. For example, if a one-sided radiant barrier is laid on top of the insulation with the reflective side facing down and touching the insulation, the radiant barrier will lose most of its effectiveness in reducing heating and cooling loads.

Emissivity is the property that determines how well a radiant barrier will perform. This property is a number between 0 and 1, with lower numbers indicating better potential for performance. The emissivity of typical, clean, unperforated radiant barriers is about 0.03 to 0.05. Hence they will have a reflectivity of 95 to 97 percent. Some materials may have higher emissivities. It is not always possible to judge the emissivity just by visual appearance. Measured emissivity values should be part of the information provided by the manufacturer.

A radiant barrier used in the attic floor application must allow water vapor to pass through it. This is necessary because, during the winter, if there is no effective vapor retarder at the ceiling, water vapor from the living space may condense and even freeze on the underside of a radiant barrier lying on the attic floor. In extremely cold climates or during prolonged periods of cold weather, a layer of condensed water could build up. In more moderate climates, the condensed water could evaporate and pass through the radiant barrier into the attic space. While most uniform aluminum coatings do not allow water vapor to pass through them, many radiant barrier materials do allow passage of water vapor. Some allow water vapor passage through holes or perforations, while others have substrates that naturally allow water vapor passage without requiring holes. However, excessively large holes will increase the emissivity and cause a reduction in the radiant barrier performance. The ability to allow water vapor to pass through radiant barrier materials is not needed for the roof applications.

How are radiant barriers installed in a residential attic?

Radiant barriers may be installed in attics in several configurations. The simplest is to lay the radiant barrier directly on top of existing attic insulation, with the reflective side up. This is often called the attic floor application. Another way to install a radiant barrier is to attach it near the roof. The roof application has several variations. One variation is to attach the radiant barrier to the bottom surfaces of the attic truss chords or rafter framing. Another is to drape the radiant barrier over the tops of the rafters before the roof deck is applied. Still another variation is to attach the radiant barrier directly to the underside of the roof deck.

More information can be found on the US Department of Energy’s website.

You should always check with your local or state energy office or building code department for current insulation recommendations or see the DOE INSULATION FACT SHEET.